Can One of the World’s Coolest Cities Also Deliver for Kids?
I’m reluctant to give up grown-up city breaks just because I have a child. And that’s why I took my three-year-old to Marseille. But is Marseille with kids a good idea? You’re about to find out.
Of course I’m going to squeeze in playground trips and carve out time for naps. But I’m also going to make sure I enjoy my trip too. Here’s how I found the best of both worlds on my Marseille getaway.
Why go to Marseille with kids?
First off, this southern French city has a lovely climate for an off-peak trip. And if your small person isn’t in primary school yet, flying off-season is the business. Fewer tourists and usually better value flights and accommodation. That’s a win in my book.
Secondly, it’s convenient. The flight is just under 2.5 hours from Dublin and the airport is about 30 minutes away from the city by bus. So if you’re flying to Marseille with kids, the travelling shouldn’t take it out of you too much.
And the last reason is the food! Marseille is a fantastic place to visit if eating is your priority.
We went a few years ago, but it’s since been dubbed “Berlin on the Med” with lots of Irish creatives making it their home. It’s not hard to see why – we found it hard to leave after our city break!
Getting around Marseille with kids
The city itself is pretty compact, which is always good when you’re with a child. However, it’s also pretty hilly and paths can be narrow, so depending on your route, it’s a workout pushing your small person around.
Public transport is pretty good, but the metro system is tricky to navigate with a buggy so we relied on buses and trams.
If you’re with a younger kid, a baby carrier could be a good option. And if you’re out of the buggy stage of your life, getting around Marseille with kids should be fine as long as they’re not afraid of the odd hill!
Where we stayed
We stayed near Notre Dame du Mont, which overlooks the city (read: is up a hill). Just after we visited, the area was named Time Out’s Coolest Neighbourhood in the World.
It’s no surprise it got that title, the place seriously impressed us. Busy, exciting and full of interesting restaurants and shops.
Instead of going for a hotel, we opted for an apartment so we could have a separate bedroom for our little boy and could whip up the odd meal at home. Plus we were right around the corner from a brilliant playground and that never hurts when you’re with a child!
Sitting pretty on the Mediterranean, this French Riviera city is perfectly poised to mesmerise
Great art and the great outdoors
Marseille has a serious art scene, so [mac], the Museum of Contemporary Art, was top of our list. It’s on the outskirts of the city, at the edge of Parc de Bonnevenie.
Entry to the permanent exhibition is free and it’s a gorgeous building to spend a few hours in. Just when we were about to leave, we came across a kids’ art workshop. Our three-year-old was invited to join in, so we extended our stay and he happily made a collage alongside the local children.
I’m a sucker for some greenery, so we made a point of checking out the 17th century Parc Borély. I loved wandering around the botanical garden, with beautiful Chinese and Japanese gardens and wisteria in full bloom.
Meanwhile, my little boy adored the playgrounds and little rides set up near the entrance. There are peacocks wandering around, so keep an eye out for them!
Making a splash in the city
Of course, we had to spend some time beside the sea while we were in Marseille. Although it was a little too chilly to take a dip, we had a lovely picnic on the sandy Plages du Prado, admiring the gorgeous cliff views.
We also had a mini adventure taking a ferry to the Frioul islands. Pebbly beaches plus a few small digger toys provided ample entertainment for our little boy while we enjoyed the unspoilt nature of this protected archipelago.
When we fancied a swim, we headed to one of the city’s municipal pools. Cheap, not too busy and well maintained, it’s an easy way to spend an afternoon.
Bring your appetite to Marseille because this city has gourmet treats to suit all ages
The art of eating in
Let’s be real. When you’re knocking around Marseille with kids, you’re not going to be spending hours eating your way through a Michelin-starred tasting menu.
What you need is tasty food on the go, amazing groceries and laidback restaurants. I’m happy to say this city delivered on all fronts.
Surely I’m not alone in loving holiday grocery shopping? Well Marseille leveled-up this experience with Fruits & Primeurs Terre De Provence, Ferments Bakery, L’Art de la Fromagerie and Notre Cave du Mont on our doorstep.
But I’ve got to give a special shout-out for Maison Mané. Specialising in arancini and handmade pasta, this shop is a godsend when you need to pick up something quick. The lemon ravioli was to die for.
Laidback restaurants
With a small person in tow, we kept it pretty casual when we ate out. My standout restaurant was Caterine, super trendy yet easy-going with impeccable food and wine. Great value for lunch too.
We also had a delightful meal at Restaurant Romy. The Mediterranean fare was delicious, but my little boy’s highlight was the basil plant on our table. He ate so many leaves his mouth turned green!
And when it’s pizza time, you can’t go wrong with French chain Tripletta. I went for the truffle-spiked Tartufo Carciofi and loved every bite.
For dessert, look no further than the elegant Sylvain Depuichaffray patisserie. My son and I shared the bright pink raspberry Isfahan macaroon on a playground bench. I’m willing to bet it was the fanciest snack there that day.
